Saturday, February 28, 2015

Old Settlers (Northern Half)

Date: 2/28/15
Distance: 18
New Map Miles: 7.8
Total Map Miles: 782.4

The last couple weeks East Tennessee has been slammed by winter storms.  The kids have been out of school 2 full weeks.  The most recent snow came down Wednesday night (3-4" at our house).  Today, I was suffering from a great desire to get out in the woods after many days of cold weather.  Today the temperatures were forecast to be in the 40's and the skies were blue.  The Northern 7.8 miles of Old Settlers was my target.  It was a great choice as many park roads were closed, but the Maddron Bald Trailhead isn't on a park road.  To get to Old Settlers on the Northern end, it is necessary to hike 1.2 miles up the Maddron Bald Trail.  Maddron Bald was snow covered by tracked down a bit by previous hikers.

The cabin on Maddron Bald was very scenic in the snow.

The 1.2 miles went quickly.  I was surprised at the Old Settlers sign to see that no one had been on the trail.  The snow was 4-6" deep and it wasn't completely obvious where the trail even was.  With a rush of "snow adrenaline" I plowed down the trail.


A mile or so down the trail, I came to a footbridge that was snow covered. 



The creek it crossed was full of snow covered boulders.






I hated to leave my footprints on the bridge. It ruined the scenic picture. 

















The next crossing did not have a bridge and was a little scary as I had to jump across the water to a snow covered rock at one point.  This trail had numerous creek crossings.  The 1st one after the bridge was the worst.  Most of the others were navigable without too much effort.

 The trail continued to be snow covered for about 4.5 miles.
At that point, I arrived at a sign which indicated a Barn (McCarter) was off to the right.  I saved the barn for the trip back.  At this point the trail had been well traveled.  I had assumed that hikers had come from the other direction and turned around at the barn.  I found out later that this wasn't accurate.

I followed the footprints for a couple miles, but then a very large tree was laying in the trail and the footprints ended.  I wondered around looking for the trail and eventually decided that the tree was a recent blowdown and I was going to need to climb through it.  I made my way through the tree, only to find that there were no longer footprints.

This concerned me greatly as I couldn't imagine where the other hiker had gone.  I pressed on  though as the trail seemed correct.  However it steadily got smaller and eventually I was only able to find it because some animal had left prints.  At several locations, I saw where trees had been chainsawed out of the trail, so I was pretty sure I was on some sort of semi-maintained trail, but it just didn't seem right.  It seemed too steep in spots and a little too overgrown in others.  I was concerned that I was following this animal well off the trail.  After about 2 or 3 miles of this, I ran into a group of 4 hikers coming the other way and was relieved to find out that I was indeed on the Old Settlers Trail still.

Another mile after passing them, I found my tree from 2 weeks ago.  Unfortunately, I walked right by it but a few tenths on down the trail was a very large wall with a chimney behind it.  I remembered it from last time, so I turned back and found my wall with the tree coming out and the very large tree behind the wall. 



I turned back and backtracked toward the car.  I did take the short side trail to the McCarter Barn.



It turns out that there is a road to the barn.  It was snow covered and probably closed.  I don't know where it comes out.  The tracks from earlier in the day, left behind the barn toward 321.  There was an obvious trail.

I didn't go check it out as all of my "Snow Adrenaline"  had run out.  I was getting tired fast.  Hiking in the snow requires some extra effort.

This trail had several climbs in this section.  I don't think they were particularly high, but the snow made any climbing challenging.

It was a great day in the snow.


Saturday, February 14, 2015

Old Settlers Trail (Southern Half)

Date: 2/14/15
Distance: 16
New Map Miles: 8
Total Map Miles: 774.6

Today started out cold, but the forecast was promising up until late afternoon, so I decided to hike the southern half of Old Settlers Trail.  Old Settlers runs from Maddron Bald Trail to Greenbrier.  The best way to hike it is as a 17 mile shuttle hike (1.2 on Maddron, 15.8 on Old Settlers), but I didn't dig up a shuttle partner, so I decided to hike 1/2 of it.  I'll hike the other half on another day, or if I find a shuttle partner, I'll just do it all.  Either way I get to hike!

I knew the trail passed by many old home sites, so I expecting an old road for a trail, but was pleasantly surprised to find a normal single track trail.


The trail was easy to hike.  It wasn't very rocky and while it had a few hills, they weren't bad.   I did have to hop rock about 10-15 small creeks.  The trail passes by numerous old chimneys and several rock walls. 





At 8.7 miles on my phone GPS (probably only about 8 miles in reality), I turned around.  The pictures below were to help me find the spot when I come from the other direction.  There was a corner of two rock walls.  A tree growing out of the top of the wall, and a very large tree back behind the wall.







Saturday, February 7, 2015

Hazel Creek - Bone Valley

Date:2/7/15
Distance: 19.2
New Map Miles: 4.1
Total Map Miles: 766.6

The hiking choices are getting slim for this map.  After hours of contemplation, I decided it was worthwhile to go get Bone Valley and Hazel up to Cold Springs.  This will leave a backpack from the Tunnel to Nowhere to Hazel via Jonas with a return trip on Cold Springs.  So with this plan in mind, I left the house about 6:10 and headed for Fontana Marina.  I arrived about 8:00, paid my $50 bucks and set sail.

 The day was just gorgeous.  It did start cold though.  It was especially cold on the boat as the big one with the enclosed cab was broken, so we took an open pontoon boat.

 At Ollie's Cove, I left the boat behind with a 4:00 scheduled pick up time.  It was about 8:30 when I started hiking.  I was cold enough from the boat ride, that the climb up from the lake didn't warm me up.  I wore 3 fleeces for about an hour.  After 1 mile, I turned onto Hazel Creek.  It is an old road that is still used by the park service.  It is right beside Hazel Creek for most of the hike, so while road hiking isn't too exciting, this one was very scenic.



 After 2 hours and 6.3 miles, I arrived at Bone Valley.  It apparently got its name when a cattle drive got caught in bad weather, and lots of cattle died in the valley.  The bones were present for many years.  The only ones I saw were on the sign.




Bone Valley is only 1.8 miles long, but it has 5 creek crossings.  The water was very cold.  It made my feet hurt as bad as I've ever felt.

At the end of the trail is the Hall Cabin.  By the time I arrived, I was freezing having walked in the water five times.  I hiked in my Chacos for most of this trail.  At the 1st crossing when I put them on, I left most of my pack behind to lighten the load for the short hike.  I really regretted this as I wished I had a fleece to help keep my core warm.





 Unfortunately, Bone Valley is an in and out, so I got to wade 5 more times on the way out.
 By the time I got back to my stuff, I was shivering.  There was ice frozen in the edge of the creek and the air temperature was pretty close to freezing as my bite valve kept freezing.  I was thrilled to get my boots back on.  It took about 1/2 an hour before I had feeling in my feet.

I had several scraps and cuts on my feet as well.  Some from the straps of the Chacos and some from kicking sticks with numb feet.  I had to tape them up a bit before I hiked too far.

 I continued on up Hazel Creek 1.3 miles to the Cold Springs intersection.  I still had a little time, so I turned on Cold Springs and hiked about 1/4 mile before I reached another creek crossing.  I had no desire to get wet again, so I turned back at this point.
Back at Hazel, I noticed that the Cold Springs trail continued across Hazel.  I walked up the short distance and found the NPS bunkhouse.  It didn't appear to be occupied.



I enjoyed a few more nice water features on the way back to Ollies


I got back to Ollies about 3:10.  I laid in the warm sun on a warm rock for about 1/2 hour before the shuttle arrived.








The hike was long, but didn't have much elevation change.  The creek crossings made it tough for February.